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Read article →Glengarriff to Ardgroom — Bere Island, Allihies and Stone Circle Country
The southern-to-northern traverse of the Beara Peninsula — five walking days from Glengarriff's oak woods to the stone-circle country above Ardgroom on the northern coast. 89km across the Caha and Slieve Miskish mountains, with a ferry to Bere Island, a night in the copper-mining village of Allihies, the painted houses of Eyeries, and the coastal path to the Ardgroom Stone Circle.
Day 3 is unlike any other day in Irish walking — a ferry from Castletownbere to Bere Island, where the loop walk takes you past Martello towers, First World War gun batteries and Second World War lookout posts. An island pub at midday, the evening ferry back.
The final two walking days follow Beara's wild northern shore. The Allihies to Eyeries path is the most dramatic on the peninsula — high above the Atlantic, with the Skellig Islands on the horizon. Eyeries to Ardgroom continues the coastal drama and ends at the Ardgroom Stone Circle — fifteen standing stones in a ring on open hillside, built around 1500 BC and still there.
Moderate grade, waymarked paths and quiet lanes, 12–21km per day. Luggage moves daily; you walk with a daypack.
Day 2 crosses under Beara's highest peak (685m) and past the Mare's Tail waterfall — 200m of single-drop fall visible from the path below on a wet day.
Day 3: a short ferry to Bere Island, a quiet car-free island with Martello towers, First World War gun batteries and Second World War observation posts. Island pub for lunch.
Ireland's second-largest whitefish port and the copper-mining village of Allihies — two of the most characterful places on the Wild Atlantic Way. MacCarthy's Bar in Castletownbere; the Copper Mine Museum and Ballydonegan Beach in Allihies.
A row of pastel houses on Beara's northern shore, home to Milleens Cheese and Caureen's Bar. The coastal path into Eyeries from Allihies is the most scenic stage on the peninsula.
Your fitness level
This tour suits regular walkers comfortable with 12–21km on rough coastal paths and rural roads over five consecutive days. Up to ~350m of ascent on the bigger days. You should be steady on uneven ground and happy in open country.
The right kind of traveller
You want the full length of Beara, north shore and south — oak woodland, mountain, copper-mine coast, painted villages and prehistoric stone circles. Evenings in village pubs, mornings with sea fog lifting off the Caha Mountains.
Solo walkers, couples and small groups
The fully supported self-guided format works for all three. Maximum eight walkers per group.
The Beara Way begins tomorrow.
Arrive in Glengarriff, gateway to Beara. The village sits in a sheltered harbour surrounded by native oak woodland and the Caha Mountains. Collect your route notes and waterproof maps from your B&B. The Bamboo Park, the Blue Pool and a good pub are all within easy reach. Easy evening; early night.
Through the ancient oak woodland of Glengarriff Nature Reserve, up onto the Caha mountain flank, under Hungry Hill (685m) and past the Mare's Tail waterfall on its north face. Bantry Bay opens to the south; the Sheep's Head across the water. Down through Adrigole, then west along the southern coast past Dunboy Castle ruins and the harbour views to Bere Island. Into Castletownbere: fresh fish and MacCarthy's Bar.
Distance: 21km. Ascent: ~500m.
Morning ferry from Castletownbere to Bere Island — a quiet, car-free island in the mouth of Berehaven harbour with a remarkable military history. The loop walk takes in Martello towers from the Napoleonic era, First World War gun batteries (when this was a Royal Navy base), and Second World War observation posts that watched the Atlantic convoys. All now silent in the grass, with wide views across to the Beara mainland.
Island pub for lunch; evening ferry back to Castletownbere.
Distance: 12km. Ascent: ~150m.
West from Castletownbere on the copper-mine trails over Miskish Mountain. Engine-house ruins, old tramway cuttings and drystone walls from the 19th-century mines appear as you climb. The descent into Allihies is dramatic — the village appears below you between Ballydonegan Beach's red sand and the green hillside. Copper Mine Museum visit; walk to the beach at dusk.
Distance: 18km. Ascent: ~250m.
Beara's most dramatic walking day — the northern coastal path above the Atlantic. The trail climbs out of Allihies with Cod's Head panoramas opening wide: ocean to the west, the Skellig Islands on the horizon to the north, old copper workings and long-abandoned stone farmsteads on the hillside. The descent into Eyeries follows the famous row of pastel-painted houses — pink, blue, mustard, green — strung along the northern shore.
Home to Milleens Cheese and Caureen's Bar. A short day that deserves a long evening.
Distance: 19km. Ascent: ~300m.
A coastal day heading east along Beara's northern shore — clifftop paths and hill tracks with the Atlantic below and mountain ridges above. The day ends at Ardgroom, a small village above the water, where the Ardgroom Stone Circle — fifteen standing stones erected around 1500 BC — sits on open hillside twenty minutes from your B&B. One of the finest prehistoric sites in Munster, with no fence and no interpretation board — just the stones and the view over the Atlantic. Harrington's pub for the evening.
Distance: 19km. Ascent: ~280m.
Last Beara breakfast in Ardgroom, then your scheduled transfer to Kenmare (around 30 minutes) for onward connections north — bus to Cork, train from Killarney, or the drive to Kerry airport. Cork airport is around 2hrs by road.
The 8-day version continues from here west to Lauragh, through the Healy Pass foothills and the ancient gardens of Derreen. We will keep a bed for you.
Six nights in handpicked B&Bs and small guesthouses: Glengarriff (1), Castletownbere (2 — for the walking day and the Bere Island day trip), Allihies (1), Eyeries (1) and Ardgroom (1). All family-run, all en-suite.
Ardgroom is a small village above the northern shore — intimate and remote, a single row of houses around Harrington's pub and a prehistoric stone circle twenty minutes' walk away. Your luggage is transferred daily by van; you walk with a daypack.
May, June and September are optimal. May brings long daylight, moorland wildflowers and relatively stable westerly winds. June offers longest days, making remote southern sections more manageable. September combines golden light, noticeably fewer visitors and cooler temperatures comfortable for mountain walking. July and August can be busy; accommodation books up and exposed sections can feel uncomfortably hot.
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Cliff & Louise
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