The Slieve Bloom Way: Walking Ireland's Quiet Heartland Mountains

Most of Ireland's great long-distance trails head for the edges of the island — the sea cliffs, the peninsulas, the Atlantic. The Slieve Bloom Way does the opposite. It climbs into the quiet heart of the country, into a range of rounded, heather-clad mountains that rise almost out of nowhere from the flat midland plain. There are mornings up here when you can stand on open moorland, turn a full circle, and not see another soul.

Part of our complete guide to Ireland's National Waymarked Ways — a trail-by-trail rundown of every long-distance walk in Ireland.

The Slieve Bloom Way is a 70-kilometre circular National Waymarked Way that loops through the Slieve Bloom Mountains across the border of County Laois and County Offaly, in the region now known as Ireland's Hidden Heartlands. It's one of the oldest waymarked trails in the country, and one of the least walked — which is precisely its charm. This is our honest guide to what the route is, what the walking is really like, and how to fit the Slieve Bloom Way into a wider walking trip in Ireland.

What is the Slieve Bloom Way?

The Slieve Bloom Way was devised by a local man, Tom Joyce, and opened in 1987 — making it a pioneer among Ireland's national trails. It's a true circuit: you finish where you started, with no need to arrange transport between two distant ends. The loop is waymarked throughout with the familiar yellow "walking man" arrows used on Ireland's National Waymarked Ways, and it's looked after by a partnership of Laois and Offaly County Councils, Coillte (the state forestry company) and the local Slieve Bloom Outdoors Group.

The Slieve Bloom Mountains themselves are ancient — geologists reckon they were once higher than the Alps, worn down over hundreds of millions of years into the soft, brooding ridges you see today. The highest point of the range is Arderin, at 527 metres, the county high point of both Laois and Offaly. Its name means "height of Ireland", and on a clear day the view reaches across a remarkable sweep of the midlands.

The route: three trailheads, one loop

One of the nicest things about the Slieve Bloom Way is that you can join it almost anywhere. The loop is usually accessed from one of three trailheads: Glenbarrow, near the village of Rosenallis in County Laois; Cadamstown in County Offaly; and Kinnitty, also in Offaly. Each makes a good starting point, and each has its own character — Kinnitty in particular is a pretty estate village with a couple of welcoming pubs.

Most walkers complete the full 70-kilometre circuit in three days, though there's no rule about it. Because it's a loop with several access points, the trail also lends itself beautifully to day walks: you can pick a single waymarked section, walk it out and back, and still get a real taste of the mountains without committing to the whole thing.

If you want one stretch to remember, make it Glenbarrow. This is where the River Barrow — Ireland's second-longest river — rises, tumbling over a series of waterfalls through a steep, wooded glen. It's one of the loveliest short walks in the midlands, and a fitting place to begin or end a circuit.

What the walking is actually like

Be honest with yourself about the terrain before you go. The Slieve Bloom Way is a mix of forestry tracks, quiet tarmac lanes, streamside paths and stretches of open moorland. Some of it is easy, pleasant walking on good surfaces. But the moorland sections can be genuinely wet and boggy underfoot, and there are climbs that are steep and rough going for long stretches. This is not a manicured path — it's a mountain trail through working forestry and upland bog.

That said, the gradients are forgiving by mountain standards — these are old, rounded hills, not jagged peaks — and the navigation is straightforward as long as you stay alert to the waymarkers in the more open country, where mist can come down quickly. Proper waterproof boots are essential, not optional, and you should carry a map and the means to navigate even though the route is signed.

What you get in return is solitude. The Slieve Blooms see a fraction of the footfall of the Wicklow Way or the Kerry Way. You'll walk through dense Coillte forest, out onto heather moor loud with skylarks in summer, past old turf-cutting ground and the sources of half a dozen rivers. It feels, genuinely, like a secret.

When to walk it

The best months are roughly April to October, with late spring and early autumn the sweet spot. In May and June the days are long, the moorland is at its driest, and the gorse and heather are coming into colour. Autumn brings the forests into gold and russet. Winter walking is possible but the moorland gets very wet, the days are short, and low cloud can make the open sections disorienting — we'd steer most walkers toward the warmer half of the year.

Where the Slieve Bloom Way fits in a walking trip

We'll be straight with you: Walking Holiday Ireland doesn't currently run a self-guided tour on the Slieve Bloom Way. It's a wonderful route for an independent walker with some mountain experience, and we'd encourage anyone drawn to quiet places to seek it out under their own steam.

But there's a lovely thread connecting it to a trail we do run. The River Barrow rises right here, at Glenbarrow in the Slieve Blooms — and downstream, where that same river has widened into one of Ireland's gentlest waterways, runs the Barrow Way. If the idea of the midlands appeals but you'd rather have your accommodation booked, your bags moved ahead each day and a friendly voice at the end of the phone, the Barrow Way is the natural companion — flat, peaceful towpath walking through riverside villages, and one of our most relaxed self-guided holidays.

And if you're still deciding which Irish trail is right for you, our complete guide to the National Waymarked Ways lays them all out side by side.

Practical tips for the Slieve Bloom Way

A few things we'd want a friend to know before setting off: base yourself in Kinnitty, Rosenallis or nearby Mountrath or Birr, where you'll find accommodation and supplies — there's very little once you're up in the hills, so carry plenty of food and water. Tell someone your route and expected return time, especially if you're walking alone. Check the forecast and be willing to change plans if low cloud is forecast over the tops. And take the Glenbarrow waterfalls slowly — they reward a wander rather than a march.

Frequently asked questions

How long is the Slieve Bloom Way?
The full circuit is 70 kilometres (about 43 miles) and most walkers complete it in three days. Because it's a loop with several access points, it also works well for single-day sections.

Is the Slieve Bloom Way difficult?
It's moderate. The hills are rounded rather than steep, but the moorland can be very wet and some climbs are long and rough underfoot. Good waterproof boots and basic navigation skills are needed.

Where does the Slieve Bloom Way start?
There's no single start — it's a circular trail accessed from Glenbarrow (near Rosenallis, Co. Laois), Cadamstown or Kinnitty (both Co. Offaly). You can begin at whichever suits your plans.

Can I walk the Slieve Bloom Way as a self-guided holiday with Walking Holiday Ireland?
Not at present — we don't run a tour on this route. If you'd like a gentle, fully organised walk in the same part of Ireland, the riverside Barrow Way is our closest self-guided holiday.

Ready to explore the Irish midlands?

The Slieve Bloom Way is one of those trails that reminds you Ireland still keeps a few quiet corners to itself. Whether you tackle the full circuit on your own or follow the River Barrow downstream onto a gentler waymarked way, we'd love to help you plan a walking trip that suits you. Browse our walking holidays or get in touch — we're always happy to talk trails.